• Roundstone to Westport – Day 7 and Day 8 of our 8 Day Adventure Holiday on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way.

    Have you ever been away in a beautiful location for a period of time and you begin to take where you are for granted? When I am leading tours and spend extended periods of time in the outdoors there are times when I begin to take where I am for granted. Then I cycle around the next headland or hike over the next horizon and I am greeted by a view which stops me in my tracks and brings me right back to the current moment.

    My world your world

    An 8 Day Adventure Holiday on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, with its spectacular scenery combined with the ever changing light from the ever changing weather, is full of such re-grounding moments. I had one of these moments as I guided the tour group up Errisbeg on Sunday morning.

    Errisbeg Mountain

    Errisbeg is a mountain in miniature, for a 300-meter-high mountain it packs a mighty punch. It is rugged, has steep rock faces, hidden lakes and it even has four summits. From the summits there are panoramic breath-taking views of the Atlantic Ocean, the fishtail beaches of Gorteen and Dogs bay, the countless lakes and bog lands of Connemara and beyond this are the higher nobler mountain ranges of the Maum Turks and the Twelve Bens. The tour group hiked to the top of the mountain with a small amount of effort. The few passing rain showers that fell did not dampen the groups spirits in anyway. This was a fantastic way to start day 7 of the 8 day Adventure Holiday on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way.

    Views in all directions on errisbeg mountain

    After the hike we got back on the tour bus and continued west through Ballyconneely and passed the Coral Beach at Mannin Bay. The next stop was at Derrigmlagh Bog which is the site of Marconi’s first permanent transatlantic radio station and the landing site for the first nonstop trans-Atlantic flight by Alcock and Brown. Here we enjoyed the gentle 5 Km walk with interpretive points along the way. At one of the interpretive points we learned the calling sounds of some of the birds in the region. This resulted in plenty discussion among the group and we attempted to identify the skylarks and meadow pipets call as we completed the walk.

    We continued our Adventure Holiday on through Clifden and took the N59 northwards on the Connemarra loop. We stopped in the lovely village of Letterfrack for lunch and browsed around the village craft shops. The next stop was at the picturesque village of Leenane, which sits at the head of Ireland’s only true Fjord, Killary Harbour. Leenane has been used for the location of some great films down through the years and when you visit it and see its scenic location you can understand exactly why.

    Aasleagh falls outside Leenane

    Leaving Leenane, the tour settled in for the final leg of the day as we travelled towards Westport. Crossing into county Mayo we visited Aasleagh waterfall and the Doo lough Pass. We took a quiet moment by the shore of Doo lough, and here I recalled the memory of the fallen victims of the Potato famine, particularly the victims who tragically died on the infamous March of 1849 from Louisburgh to Delphi lodge, where they were refused aid from the English landlord.

    National Famine Monument with Croagh Patrick in the background

    We spent the night in the town of Westport. Here there are many good quality restaurants to eat and some great Irish pubs to have a pint, and we did exactly that.

    On the final morning of the 8 Day Adventure Tour we started the day with a hearty breakfast in our Westport bed and breakfast. We then travelled to Newport where we enjoyed a wonderful cycle on the great western greenway to Mulranny. The last stop of the tour was Mulranny beach and salt flats where we had a gentle walk. We were blessed to be the only ones on the beach. There was an air of calm with the mixed song of the ocean, bleating sheep and singing birds. A suitable end to a magnificent 8 Day Adventure Tour on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way.

    Mulranny Beach

    Peace of the West -Video

  • A Beyond the Glass Adventure Tour to Snowdonia

    On this Saint Patrick’s day weekend, Beyond the Glass Adventure Tours took a group of 6 Irish lads on an adventure tour to Snowdonia in Wales. Snowdonia is less than an hour’s drive from the ferry port of Holyhead, which is only a two hour ferry journey from Dublin. This makes Snowdonia very accessible from Ireland.

    We sailed to Wales on Friday morning and the adventure started immediately. Our first stop was to the Velocity Zip Wire Centre in Penrhyn Quarry, Bethesda. This was a sure way to build excitement for the three days adventure tour to come. This excitement was temporarily quietened when the boys where dangling in the air, strapped into the Zip line harness. They were about to be released on the fastest zip line in the world and the longest in Europe. Any fear that was present was quickly quenched by the rush of adrenaline that ran through each of them as they flew through the northern Wales air at speeds up to 120km per hour. The staff, the organisation and the attention to safety at the velocity centre is extremely reassuring; and the flight on the Zip wire had the group well set up for the coming days.

    Adventures in Snowdonia

    We arranged the accommodation for the weekend in the village of Llanberis. Llanberis is a scenic Welsh village which is beautifully situated at the foot of mount Snowdon and on the edge of Lake Padarn. There are several excellent bars, restaurants and outdoor shops in the Village. The locals are very helpful and being welsh they are naturally very friendly.

    Wale’s Highest Mountain

    From Llanberis on Saturday morning we set out for a hike up Snowdon, Wale’s highest mountain. The weather for the weekend was bitterly cold, with strong winds and snow flurries. When we stepped out of the bus at the Pen-y-Pass we felt the full force of the elements, even in the short space of time it took to put on our outer layer of gear our body temperatures were dropping. Everyone was happy to start moving so as to get warmed up. Despite the winter conditions there were still many groups braving the elements to tackle the mountain. We led the group of Irish on their own Paddies day parade up the Pyg track. The clouds did part on occasion so give some spectacular views down the Llanberis Pass to Llyn Peris and later over the lakes of Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw. But for much of the day the peaks were shrouded in clouds.
    Extreme care was required in the upper sections of the mountain as the path was iced-up in many places, it also got significantly colder as we gained height. With the wind chill effect the temperatures were as cold as minus 20 degree Celsius. Coming off the mountain we descended via the miners track. Now the group began to look forward to a hot drink and warming food. The clouds never moved off the famous Crib Goch ridge but as we reached the bottom of the miners track the clouds did temporarily part to reveal the impressive Snowdon peak. Just rewards for the group’s efforts of the day.

    We had the group back to Llanberis in time to watch Ireland beat England and win the Grand Slam. That evening there was much craic and few drinks had while the group celebrated the rugby win and Saint Patrick’s Day.

    Winter Hiking in Wales

    On the Sunday we had arranged for the group to go Downhill Mountain biking in a local biking centre. Unfortunately the bike Centre cancelled this at the last minute due to the late winter weather that Wales was experiencing. So early on Sunday morning we organised an alternative activity. After a late breakfast and a relaxing Sunday morning we took a beautiful walk around Padarn Lake. The path we took followed a disused railway track on its southern shore and runs beneath a canopy of trees. It follows a vintage railway track on its northern shore. As we neared the finish of the 10km hike we visited the 13th century Dolbadarn castle and the National slate museum.

    The group may have been a little tired as they returned to Ireland after their Adventure tour but they were certainly very happy. It also was a fantastic start to the 2018 season for Beyond the Glass Adventure Tours.

    A satisfied tour group, relaxing after the three day adventure tour
  • The Wild Atlantic Way – A Working Land

    The Wild Atlantic Way, as well as being one of the world’s top tourist destinations, also provides a livelihood for people in many other trades and industries outside of tourism. The towns, villages, fields and harbours along Ireland’s Atlantic Coast are working communities, a lineage carried on for many generations from those who first moved here to make a living. Only the hardiest and those who respected the harsh landscape survived economically. To successfully eke out a living here, you need to do so by working in concert with and within the limitation of the Wild Atlantic coastline. It is true that some trades and crafts did not survive as well as others.

    Fishing
    Many of the beautiful tourist towns along the Wild Atlantic Way originated as fishing settlements, and those that adapted to the changing times still are thriving fishing harbours. If you are lucky enough to visit any of these places, such as Gweedore, Kinsale, Westport or Dingle, you will have the pleasure of eating in some lovely restaurants. The food you’ll eat will most likely be locally sourced. As you stroll around the harbours, if you keep your eyes peeled, you will see fishing trawlers unloading their cargo or about to head out to sea and Mussel and Lobster farmers hauling their lines and pots.

    Wild Atlantic Way
    Fishing Trawlers at Union Hall, Co Cork.

    Markets and Fairs
    Scattered along the west coast you will find many market towns. In fact, there was a time when every town had a regular market or fair. The fair was an intrinsic part of Irish society. As well as a place to sell your produce it was a place to socialise. Many towns still have a weekly or monthly market where you can buy and sample the best of local and Irish made products by artisan producers. Other towns have maintained the tradition of the old fairs by creating a festival around it. The town of Killorglin has done this to great effect; here on the 10th, 11th and 12th of August they hold the annual Puck fair. This fair dates back well before any written records began and probably to pre Christian times, it may have evolved from old pagan celebrations. Fantastically, the centre and most import feature of the festival is a Goat! Before the festival begins some the town’s hardiest individuals take to the mountains to find a suitable candidate, the goat is raised to the top of a pedestal and crowned King Puck for three days and on the third day he is released back to the mountains. As you enter the town you will find a sculpted goat guarding the towns’ bridge.

    Killorglin, Co. Kerry.
    King Puck, Killorglin, Co. Kerry.

    Crafts
    Hand crafts such as spinning, weaving, stonework and knitting were a mainstay of western communities for centuries. Many of these craft skills survive to this day. If you look at one small section of coast, the Aran Islands, you will see many examples of these craft skills alive today. The world famous Aran sweater had its origins on the Aran Islands. The sweaters or Jumpers have their own unique stitching styles, these styles are linked to many myths and tales. An interesting craft of the Aran Islands is Pampooties, specialist moccasin-type shoes. Willow basket or willow creels have been used by the fishing folk of Aran for decades to carry their bounty. Dry stone wall building takes on a life of its own on the Aran Islands. Creating a patchwork of fields, the stone walls have been an inspiration for many artists including Sean Scully. You will notice as you travel the island that on lower ground the walls are compact with the stone placement being close together and on higher ground the stones are placed at seemingly ridiculous angles and there are many large gaping holes in the walls. However there is a very good reason for this, on the higher ground the wind blows much stronger and is liable to take down the wall, however when the wind meets the wall with the holes it just passes on through.

    Cycling between stone walls on the Wild Atlantic Way
    Cycling between stone walls on Inis Mor

    Farming
    As it is for the entire island of Ireland, farming provides a living for thousands of families along the Wild Atlantic Way. You will encounter many aspects of farming life on your travels. Even though it may appear like a quaint peculiarity for your added enjoyment, the sheep that so often cross the road in front of as you wind your way along the Wild Atlantic Way are people’s livestock, the multi-colours painted on their back is to distinguish ownership. In Connemara, it is not uncommon to see a farmer building a cock of Hay, a practice long outdated elsewhere. The small stone fields do not allow easy access for large modern machinery. In winter on the Burren you will see cattle out on the karst landscape. This may seem to be counter intuitive, to winter cattle on a hillside. The reason is that the limestone rock is excellent at retaining heat, this is also the reason you can spot alpine flowers in the area.

    Sheep on road on slea head drive.
    Sheep Crossing the road on Slea Head

    Communication
    Much of the industry that was present has been outdated by the advance of technology and only exists in cottage or artisan form. One example of an outdated technology that has disappeared completely is the telegraph system. This, once a marvel of communication that reduced the time from 2 weeks to minutes to bring news across the Atlantic Ocean from USA and Europe. The first transatlantic telegraph station on the European side was on Valentia Island, the first transatlantic message was sent in 1858. The cable station is still present. Interestingly, the oldest confirmed amphibious footprints ever found on PLANET EARTH are only a short distance from the telegraph station.

    View from Tripod footprints on Valentia Island.
    View from Tripod footprints on Valentia Island.

    Navigators, Explorers and Inn keepers
    Among the workers, there are always the dreamers and the discoverers who want to search for more and seek out new lands. St.Brendan, born in the year 484 AD, was a Monk who wanted to spread the Gospel. It is recounted in medieval text that he sailed to America to spread the good word, he landed at Newfoundland. This makes him the first to cross the Atlantic.
    Another Kerry man with attitude came along 1,500 years later. In the early 1900’s, Tom Crean joined the British navy and he was an integral part of three expeditions to be the first to reach the South Pole. During these expeditions there are several awe inspiring stories of survival. One of the most impressive, is the sailing from the Antarctic across the southern Atlantic Ocean in lifeboats for 5 days to Elephant Island, followed by a traverse across the uncharted, glacier covered, South Georgia Island. When Crean returned to Ireland he opened a Pub in his home of Annascaul. The appropriately named South Pole inn is still run by his family.

    The south Pole Inn, Annascaul, kerry.
    The south Pole Inn, Annascaul, kerry.